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BuBuOne
Published on 01/23/09 at 15:07
Value For Money :
Excellent
I use a PD-1012 PD-1010 and two last year, as toms.
This is probably bi-sensor pads to look "GPs" cheapest. The dtection is correct, but very little homogne.
They raliss t from a tom (very low-end) to which was grafted a single sensor in the form of a box that collects on the skin and the edge. The sensor is located under the red plate (which is only there for the sensor being protected - remove it or paint it black, will have less weird).
Due to the presence of a sensor board, not at all dtection homogne. The sensitivity on the skin increases srieusement when approaching the sensor. On the rim sensor is the same battle.
To try the amliorer homognit I tried to work on stretching the skin, but the original skin seems a bit invalid: it keeps a look-soft elastic, which of the voltage. This skin is also very fragile, it has jump After a few weeks. I replaced by a skin replacement Roland, which makes the surface of the pad more rigid, with the lgre amlioration dtection. Once the skin disassemble, I used to sand a little corners of ft, which taient apparently a bit too sharp (Dchira potential source of skin).
To illustrate the low-end appearance, know that the sensitivity between my 2 pads Millennium PD-1010 varies significantly from one another - but the module can fix a.
I tried many other models sr. Mesh I have a PDX-8 and PD-125, both of Roland. The DP-125 is much better than the Millennium, but also more expensive. The PDX-8 is already more comparable because cheap (but smaller), and also with a sensor located on its side as it ragit this much better, and Manir homogne more.
Overall it is usable if it is to hit hard: the sensitivity rglerez you to easily reach the max. But if it comes to playing nuances, the wide disparity-detection on the playing surface can cause you some cool ...
Finally, the point FCHE: The system setting is really limited, it does not seem very solid and screw is so short that it does not dvisser enough for us to the install easily onto a rod rack Roland (who seems very standard). It is doable, but pnible when not used.
With exprience, I would look to possibly be a real ft tom, which I would install a skin mesh and is a trigger Roland clipper or a system that is home to capture.
This is probably bi-sensor pads to look "GPs" cheapest. The dtection is correct, but very little homogne.
They raliss t from a tom (very low-end) to which was grafted a single sensor in the form of a box that collects on the skin and the edge. The sensor is located under the red plate (which is only there for the sensor being protected - remove it or paint it black, will have less weird).
Due to the presence of a sensor board, not at all dtection homogne. The sensitivity on the skin increases srieusement when approaching the sensor. On the rim sensor is the same battle.
To try the amliorer homognit I tried to work on stretching the skin, but the original skin seems a bit invalid: it keeps a look-soft elastic, which of the voltage. This skin is also very fragile, it has jump After a few weeks. I replaced by a skin replacement Roland, which makes the surface of the pad more rigid, with the lgre amlioration dtection. Once the skin disassemble, I used to sand a little corners of ft, which taient apparently a bit too sharp (Dchira potential source of skin).
To illustrate the low-end appearance, know that the sensitivity between my 2 pads Millennium PD-1010 varies significantly from one another - but the module can fix a.
I tried many other models sr. Mesh I have a PDX-8 and PD-125, both of Roland. The DP-125 is much better than the Millennium, but also more expensive. The PDX-8 is already more comparable because cheap (but smaller), and also with a sensor located on its side as it ragit this much better, and Manir homogne more.
Overall it is usable if it is to hit hard: the sensitivity rglerez you to easily reach the max. But if it comes to playing nuances, the wide disparity-detection on the playing surface can cause you some cool ...
Finally, the point FCHE: The system setting is really limited, it does not seem very solid and screw is so short that it does not dvisser enough for us to the install easily onto a rod rack Roland (who seems very standard). It is doable, but pnible when not used.
With exprience, I would look to possibly be a real ft tom, which I would install a skin mesh and is a trigger Roland clipper or a system that is home to capture.