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tinisaDIY
Published on 07/13/11 at 09:21 (This content has been automatically translated from French)is pure made in China: polish smudges on the gills, poorly fitted saddle, bridge out of position etc ...
Now, for those who are least yourselfers and careful, there are ways to make a very nice instrument. To do this:
* Remove the Nut, dig the groove for a clean, flat surface and pick up the nut. Better put a bone nut and ebony (I had already done on a guitar, the change was significant)
* Oil the key, which is rosewood pretty good but completely dry. I use oil to wood Ikea, with experience is what I found better, much better than the so-called specialty oils
* Completely penetrate the two holes of the movable portion of the bridge. This lowers the bridge completely and properly...…
Now, for those who are least yourselfers and careful, there are ways to make a very nice instrument. To do this:
* Remove the Nut, dig the groove for a clean, flat surface and pick up the nut. Better put a bone nut and ebony (I had already done on a guitar, the change was significant)
* Oil the key, which is rosewood pretty good but completely dry. I use oil to wood Ikea, with experience is what I found better, much better than the so-called specialty oils
* Completely penetrate the two holes of the movable portion of the bridge. This lowers the bridge completely and properly...…
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is pure made in China: polish smudges on the gills, poorly fitted saddle, bridge out of position etc ...
Now, for those who are least yourselfers and careful, there are ways to make a very nice instrument. To do this:
* Remove the Nut, dig the groove for a clean, flat surface and pick up the nut. Better put a bone nut and ebony (I had already done on a guitar, the change was significant)
* Oil the key, which is rosewood pretty good but completely dry. I use oil to wood Ikea, with experience is what I found better, much better than the so-called specialty oils
* Completely penetrate the two holes of the movable portion of the bridge. This lowers the bridge completely and properly adjust the action. Without that, the action is too high bcp, and play becomes a test of strength
* Change the string, being careful to make nickel strings (to use the microphone. The bronze strings are commonly sold for acoustic mandolins)
UTILIZATION
handle pretty good, although quite thick. The frets are pretty well finished and do not damage your fingers. Mechanics do not seem top, but make their case. In any case not an instrument for making string bends + short = less detuning
SOUNDS
with the changes mentioned above (starting with the string change, mandatory), we arrive at good deal and get the mandolin sound very nice. Maybe not this offered a Gibson F5, but the sound is there, and a really small investment.
The 'tone' can vary the tone, as its name suggests, but it is not optimal. Unfortunately, access to electronic looks boring (by the gills), so I give up. A change in value of the condo, and perhaps the least cheap knobs would be beneficial, but I do not have time to experiment and the sound is pretty cool as is.
OVERALL OPINION
this is my first mandolin, a purchase favorite, just for curiosity. Rather satisfied with the tone of the instrument, even if a minimum of tinkering is required. So avoid broken arms, or else buy a mandolin highest caliber
Now, for those who are least yourselfers and careful, there are ways to make a very nice instrument. To do this:
* Remove the Nut, dig the groove for a clean, flat surface and pick up the nut. Better put a bone nut and ebony (I had already done on a guitar, the change was significant)
* Oil the key, which is rosewood pretty good but completely dry. I use oil to wood Ikea, with experience is what I found better, much better than the so-called specialty oils
* Completely penetrate the two holes of the movable portion of the bridge. This lowers the bridge completely and properly adjust the action. Without that, the action is too high bcp, and play becomes a test of strength
* Change the string, being careful to make nickel strings (to use the microphone. The bronze strings are commonly sold for acoustic mandolins)
UTILIZATION
handle pretty good, although quite thick. The frets are pretty well finished and do not damage your fingers. Mechanics do not seem top, but make their case. In any case not an instrument for making string bends + short = less detuning
SOUNDS
with the changes mentioned above (starting with the string change, mandatory), we arrive at good deal and get the mandolin sound very nice. Maybe not this offered a Gibson F5, but the sound is there, and a really small investment.
The 'tone' can vary the tone, as its name suggests, but it is not optimal. Unfortunately, access to electronic looks boring (by the gills), so I give up. A change in value of the condo, and perhaps the least cheap knobs would be beneficial, but I do not have time to experiment and the sound is pretty cool as is.
OVERALL OPINION
this is my first mandolin, a purchase favorite, just for curiosity. Rather satisfied with the tone of the instrument, even if a minimum of tinkering is required. So avoid broken arms, or else buy a mandolin highest caliber
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