All user reviews for the VHM Loadbox

This is a power attnuateur transistors that can eat a power of 100W at 10 ohm (which allows it to be used as 8 or 16 ohm).

It parat it is simple

Average.

THE SERVICE WAS CATASTROPHIC !!!

We did not rpondu my emails
My mail for an offer has more than three weeks back to me
My order t thrown because they did not take care to read to the end
C'tait revive me and hear me their mockery
IBAN FOR PAYMENT WERE SENT ME WRONG. The shots, I now risks losing 300 euros because the money-t vir has a wrong account!

I DO MORE TRUST THESE ...!

If you have time you take the head with a team that incomptente trate the musicians of "deadbeat", then go for it! For my part, I think bringing them procs for fraud.

Good luck!

Ras

Ras

Ras

From a sound perspective, this makes perfect attnuateur his office, however, in principle it is extremely dangerous to the output transformer of your ampli.l'impdance of mounting attnuateur + amp will dpendre the stroke of the knob on the box. Indeed, attnuateur is actually (what a beautiful commercial scam by the way!) A simple voltage divider. Consider the mount 16 ohm to simplify (actually it's 15 but hey ....) zero, the Impedance seen by the transformer is 16 ohm, a quarter of the race itself pass 15, the half 13 to 11 and three quarters last full run (do not forget that race will give full power to your hp term returns than half the power DLivre by transo, which reprsentera sound decline than 3 dB will be just perceptible to the ear) gave 8 which is the half of departure and is extr armament prjudiciable the transformer if the latter has its output prvue to 16 ohm.
parade: Never dpasser quarter or so of the race take exit 8 ohm amp, with the risk that the loss of power (that binds to the 8 ohm output as it is a divider assembly voltage!) do not change too much the nature of sound. But this is by far the least risk solution!

Power attenuator 8-16 ohms by VHM
1 input 1 output
1 switch for bypass
1 button for the attenuation level
Steel housing and solid gross appearance
50W maximum power

HP has put between the amp and the head via an HP cable (not supplied) careful not to put a guitar jack ...
I use a Fender 65 Deluxe (18W) on this power if all goes well I had also used a Fender Blues Deluxe (40W) then there is death have pushed mitigation I was almost to the end ... the volume to 1 on the amp, 40W is reached the limits of the machine so I ask to see 50W but I doubt the effectiveness of this product with power

The case does a good job is a slight compression but nothing alarming is therefore transparent RAS

I can push a little more and suddenly my amp to do a little more crunch and bring out the lamps without the cops ass, for me it is a must buy, must also be open after the volume if the HP rendering is feeble but overall it is a very useful device in an apartment but limited to 30W max in my opinion, the more you push the more volume must be mitigated, should come to find the right balance between the power of the amp and speaker output ... and of course the more you push the amp more lamps wear ... I will replace the Koch (€ 227) with midi output for recording if there is also the SPL Reducer (319 €) but these products are very expensive and without comparison with the VHM 150 €

Purchased by mail order there is a little over 15 days, powerbrake, as its name suggests, aims to reduce the output volume of the amp, in order not to explode the ears and take advantage of the power tubes at high volume.
Mine is connected between my head Ashdown Fallen Angel 60w and my cabinet 1922.
Do not be frightened by the appearance of gear: a tin box with a slider (to reduce the volume of 100 to 0%), a bypass switch, an input and an output jack (rated at typex indications!) is all (except precision "assembled in Mexico").
It can be comes from my amp, not bad performance at low volumes, but I was fairly disappointed when I tried this on my channel powerbrake saturated. I find the sound too compressed, too "tight".
For cons, the clean channel with gain and half a TS9, then there is the Panard. The sound is great, compressed of course, because the lamps are more requested, but much smaller than the lead channel. It is clear on this channel, with the addition of an overdrive, the purchase of this powerbrake is perfectly justified to me. So, I sold my disto no longer needed
But again, I repeat, I think the report should be different depending on the type of amp

I just said above

Ditto

Ditto

So this is a power attenuator, very useful when playing a tube amp in an apartment ...
The least we can say is that it's rustic! It comes in the form of a simple metal box with a big knob on over a switch. Level connectivity is input / output jack 6.35mm and that's it. There's no need more anyway). It looks very strong anyway.
I think it comes in different powers, the choice depending on when the power of your amp.

As a result, the configuration is very simple. Simply connect to the amp (be careful to use speaker cables) and then set the desired volume with the slider. That's it, no need to take the lead with other settings.
As a guide, bah just a sheet explaining how to connect to the amp powerbrake.

I use this amp with my powerbrake Sunn T50C (volume 1 was already far too high ...).
I am extremely happy, I can turn up the volume in clean the amp to get a good crunch sound (no master volume on the amp) and saturated bah I can put the gain at the bottom and volume of the amp without breaking the ears of everyone (and myself at the same time lol).
There may be just a tad more compression, but frankly I've always a lot of momentum, either plain or in full.
In short, the sound is excellent, although it greatly reduces the original volume.
You still have to clarify I think it may depend heavily on your amp. That's why I advise people on the Paris region to try the store front.

I use it for a year and a half now, and I'm still happy Auconie problem for now.
What I like most is the simple side, I plug in and that's it.
I bought it because when I received my Sunn, I thought the windows were broken. So I went to see in this store Valve House Music with my amp to see if there was not a problem on it, and there he told me that in fact it was normal bah lol. The guy made me try his powerbrake, hop and I bought it.
I have not tried others before, it must be said that Marshall, THD and company are much more expensive (€ 140 for the VHM) and clearly not his best side.
I think the quality / price excellent and I do it again this election if necessary.
In addition, the guys are really nice, when I was there I stayed a good hour just to talk with them ... amp

This is a power attenuator transistor that can swallow 100w. The metal case is strong and seems able to support a tour. Experiment, it supports them in fact. Soon four years after purchase, it is still running.

I notice an inscription "assembled in mexico" ... weird. An entry from the amp, output in the cabinet, a third that can connect online, but I never use this function.

The manual comes down to a sheet that explains what you can easily see for yourself.

The real questions that you ask you are not detailed, and I therefore responds to you. The amperage of this attenuator is 10 ohm. Do not ask me why, but this allows it to be used both on a couple cabinet / 8 ohm amp than 16 ohm. This point bothered me to marshals and other THD. Be careful (I see some future) it is not a power transformer, if you feed your 8 ohm output by, it will return to your entry into the cab 8 ohm. This makes sense, unless you're a noob and it's always nice to note.

[6] standard and simple but with the small addition to the multi-impedance. But a little disappointing because only one output to the cabs.

The case is simply this. Input and output to go out of his head toward the speaker.

A wheel for the determination of the level of mitigation.

The use is standard. However, I must indicate that much cash the major powers and little heat, even in prolonged use. However, red card for design. The fins directly affect the soil, because they are a bit beyond the case. If you have carpet, you will have to gaffer.

Similarly, another big problem. Is that the more you reduce, more lower its impedance. The post of another forumeur made me pay attention. Indeed, without pushing my amp unreasonably. Tubes blackened quickly. I tend to put the attenuator to almost the bottom and up, reasonably, the master volume. I take this opportunity to point out that, on a 30w amp and do not mount the knob mitigation donf almost immediately excluded from the game volume bedroom. "In short, following the opinion left lower j 'I then reduced the median values ​​mitigation (improving transparency at the same time), and was able to keep the following set of tubes significantly longer (equal volumes). However, the volume becomes very large and ruled out any use other than "locally or in concert".

[5] is also easy to grip. All its direct competitors offering more or less the same factors, but it is far from big names like that.

It allows you to make the most of his tube amplifier without twisting the ears.

The small inflection in the treble is forgivable, I also denoted a small muddy side in the medium as a whole, but only after re-re-re-re-re-re-(4892x) and listening by plugging in the gear killing (the nouveaumien)! The muddy side tends to increase over the selected mitigation is important. However, it is impossible to eat all the 100w spewed by my head, but it's still not very attenuated and can not play flat. But the attenuation of a 100w can fall below the threshold of pain and give the guitar its true place. Ideally, however, a connection to a 30W or less, one is left to grow over-and under it is pushed, the less the little muddy side. Practice Tip for the studio.

[7] Nothing amazing in its specificity, its ok.

A good quality product, which is sadly misdirected.

Many problems in order to force me strongly discouraged. <strong>[1]</strong> you will understand why going to read on the forum attached

<strong>Note [5] is the average home.</strong> My previous opinion lacked objectivity and was written under the influence of nervousness, this opinion is more objective and better guide the consumer.

EDIT: ATTENTION! The mail alert below is very serious. I actually found a rapid darkening of my tubes when I was pushing at an end of output 80hm. After changing and taking into account what was said below, the wear of the tubes is slower and darkening is normal in duration.

Attenuator power up to 50W for HP 8 Ohms.
An input and an input HP Power Amp
A potentiometer for adjusting the attenuation (0 to 100%)

The configuration is so we can not simple.Il just have to adjust the rate of attenuation as a function of the tolerance of neighbors. Personally in the practical solution to the maximum (95%) with the volume of the Amli at 4 / 10 (30W all-tube), the volume is comparable to that obtained with a multi-effects connected to a PC with speakers low end ( only the volume of course !!!). Basically, no complaints from neighbors for the time when I use it in an apartment in the city center.

RMQ: My HP is 16 ohms but the seller told me that for small power (30W in this case) that the case be made for HP 8 Ohms did not matter.

I use it on an Orange Rocker 30 in an apartment in the city center (the neighbors across anything !!!).
The grain of the amplifier and the heat lamps are very well preserved but most importantly, I can finally have a saturation worthy of the name (which appears to the quarter of the volume which is in normal use already too high) without me ears to bleed.
however, results in attenuation of high frequencies down which involves changing settings in relation to use in rehearsal '(not too complicated anyway ...). But the sound this does not mean gradient rendering and found particularly surprising.

I use it for a few days and I confess that I am more than satisfied.
The price is reasonable, although its features are quite limited, but somehow it is the cheapest on the market (in any case I have not found better) and then I am parrait be essential to have good lighting in the apartment.
I went to look directly at the shop in Pigalle VHM and I want to say that the reception is particularly good. The store suggested I try it for a week, leaving a security deposit without my request.

I have the 50W version.
Between a (to power amp), an output (to HP), a potentiomtre for the rgler attnuation, an on-off switch.
The least we can say is that it is bone-hardy.
What the bare minimum ...

Use can not be simple. It connects between the power amp and HP and assayed the attnuation.

It's been super good job this little thing. The sound quality is at the appointment. May be a lightweight in acute scrub but nothing scary.

I have a Hot Rod Deluxe 40W All Tube oats therefore something that a lot in an apartment. The sound is good even in frankly attnuant 95%. Is therefore a way to cruncher Fender all-tube in an apartment, plutt not bad?

Bought used on eBay in the 100 so I think excellent quality-price. Background necessary to take advantage of its all-tube Reduces volume.

I think the advice that follows can avoid a few disasters!!

Ras

Ras

From a sound point of view, this attenuator is perfectly his office, however, in principle it is extremely dangerous to the output transformer of your ampli.l impedance input attenuator assembly + amp will depend on the race the knob on the box. Indeed, the attenuator is in fact (what a beautiful commercial scam by the way!) A simple voltage divider. Take the example of mounting 16 ohm to simplify (in fact it is 15 but hey ....), to zero, the impedance seen by the transformer is 16 ohm, one quarter of the race it goes to 15, half to 13 in three quarters to 11 and finally to full speed (do not forget that full race is not going to give in terms of power output to your HP as half the power delivered by the transo, which does a decrease of 3 dB noise as to be barely perceptible to the ear) it gives 8 which is half of the start and that is extremely detrimental to the transformer if it has its release scheduled for 16 ohm.
Parade: Never exceed one quarter of the race and then take exit 8 ohm of the amp, with the risk that the power loss (due to the fact that the 8 ohm output also corresponds to a voltage divider mounting!) not change too much the nature of sound. But this is by far the least risky

This arrangement allows you to play Reduces volume in the studio, apartments and small rooms in the bnficiant CHARACTERISTICS lamps shoots into a corner.
A jack-between "Amp" connect the speaker output 8 or 16 Ohms
An output-jack "HP" HP to connect your combo or cable prvu baffle.Utiliser of this effect and not the vulgar instrument cable jack.
- A switch into circuit operation.
- A potentiomtre to assay the attnuation.

MODEL I work for a maximum power output of 50 watts amp. Attention has very hot if you push back the Master.
MODEL This does not include cooling fin.

Remember that this assembly is intended for occasional use and work occasionally with his amp rpter ftiche. For prolonged use, prvoir plutt buy a smaller amp 15 watts or 5.10 you have time to sollicter in lamps.

Use trs simple. It's essential to connect the assembly before powering the amp. Svrement could otherwise damage your output transformer to the same way as sending the sauce without being an HP connection.

Next, turn on and act on the Powerbrake potentiomtre attnuation of dosing while the master of the amp power tubes Take affected their higher yields.

There is no simpler!

Let's be direct: it is efficient trs. The goal of both lamps to give the maximum punch and sound without mute characters in the neighborhood.
I possde SpiderValve a 40 w and I must say I t bluff. This amp really needs to be "poussquot; apartment is almost unusable because of its awesome power to master even the mini slider. In this case, pert in energy, slamming in velvety we obtain a sound "no more".
The VHM is something else! The master half of the race, the red lights give the potato any sound, clean sounds to draw the best of crunches when you start "handle" the strings! Saturations become much biting and feeding. All this with a reasonable amount of small transistor combo.

Mdaille back of a compression appears to lgre highest rates of attnuation. This tends to erase high frquences it will again leave the equalizer or the instrument . Mchant but nothing too audible.
Overall, the personality of the amp and HP is well respected.

I use it for a few days but this is enough to understand the services that this arrangement provides.
I find, at home, the feelings that I sound live or in the rptitions "large" with my 40w lamps. This m'vitera buying a 15w as I planned.
I like the simplicity of use.
I'm less excited about the product really prsentation summary and "artisanal".
I have not tried other models before this one because this type of hardware is expensive gnralement with Marshall and others (several hundred dollars).
I got what VHMPowerbrake50 for 89 on ebay (including shipping). This assembly is 150 from the manufacturer. Control option on their site.
Report qualitprix average but service / price excellent.

Reducing power to be placed between the amp and the speakers.

A switch allows the snap attenuatueur.
A portard can set the desired attenuation.

It retains its efficace.Cela the amp cranked, but at a reasonable volume.
I hear no loss of quality.
Obviously we not hear the same chose.C is like listening to a CD at high volume and low volume, the sound is always good but not hear the same details.

I use it for 10 jours.Ça changed my life.
I can finally register when I want without bothering
my family and have fun without ears with my headphones cranked to cover
the sound of the amp.
I regret not having bought it sooner!

I used the amp for 50W version, which I bought new from WHV to Pigalle. Welcome, answers, advice, but but but ...
I had to upgrade to 60 W, with the bulky heat sinks. Why? ben ... Read =

Use simple: an input output. Too bad this evening wrote to White, if ever it goes with wear, how we found it? Eh, I ask you!
There is a bypass, where there's just nothing to writing. We need to know what position is the bypass and which is engaged in the bazaar.
Same for the knob Graduated: percentages correspond to the attenuation or signal that passes?

Well obviously all that it jumps to the ears when we play and we do not touch it much, I admit, but a few that ergonomics is not more expensive, or very little, considering the price almost ashamed of the craft .


No significant change in the tone of my amp when I put the beast to the buttocks.
It's not bad, but I was a little disappointed cons of mitigation.
Let me explain my amp, a Mesa DC5 combo old farts ears to the entire group in rehearsal when I exceed 1.5 in the overall volume. At 1.3 you can hear me over, 1,5 we only hear me. In short, not easy to resolve, must go to the micrometer clamp to find the appropriate volume ... Are shitting in Mesa, could not put a more gradual system volume? There, I feel like I have 60% of the power of the amp as soon as the volume is on 2 general pfffff
So, I say that with an attenuator, I can turn up the volume louder to the amp and mitigated before the chamber for not busting eardrums group: I should also quickly find the perfect sound level and balanced.

Briefly, I plug it all and ... Ben finally, the best compromise I've found so far is my level up to 2.5 only on my overall global output with an attenuation of 85%!
it gives a little leeway but not much after all.
And most importantly, 85% of the housing mitigation VHM is boiling hot after an hour, you can not touch (be careful where it is placed, it quickly burn out his support this thing ...), and c ' is why I dared not mitigate more.

Added 24/06/2010.
With version 60 W, I push my master to 2.5, I play on the master of each channel (no more than 3 in 10, bad, I liked to push more but hey ...) and I set the attenuation about 60%.
Once it heats but it still remains reasonable, and I can adjust the volume more easily than before, puncturing the eardrum a little less of my friends Zikos group

Engin quite expensive for what it is (170 € for the 50W version, after a dozen € more for the 60W version, and yes), medium ergonomic ago foutage of the mouth in the air even if j 'was aware of what was going to cost me my inability to tinker.
Using very recently, my initial findings are as follows.
The (very) good point is that it not distort the sound, what I feared.
The bad point is that if we want to alleviate much, it heats to death: the sudden, we dare not too mitigate the blow is not as radical as hoped
Clearly, I expected more, both to let you work the lights and set my level to be able more easily. On this side, so that the mission is accomplished very moderately.
But what choice have I got?

In conclusion for now: Q / P bad, but I'm afraid to do what I wanted, there were not 36 solutions, and this machine is a (however imperfect). So I despair of finding a completely satisfactory solution to my problem of volume

Remains to be seen whether the use of my stuff does not prematurely fatigue components of the amp (and I mean no lights, where there is normal wear them more if they made more heat)