Published on 11/14/05 at 07:24
Every lamp, rectifier, 4 preamp, 4 power <br>100w <br>1 HP celestion G12H100 (very good but no more distributed, better than the T series) <br>Front: 1 entry <br>on the back: an serial effects loop, a single clear footswich / lead and a stereo reverb / lead boost. <br>8ohm or 2 * 4Ohm <br>A spring reverb <br><br>For the channel clear <br><br>volume <br>3-band active equalizer <br>+ Switches (boost gain, frequency shift, bright, shift treeble) <br><br>For the lead channel: <br><br>lead <br>3-band active equalize <br>volume <br>+ Switches (clean / lead, bright, medium shift, lead boost, bypass to equalize lead) <br><br>Power: <br><br>Master <br>presence <br>reverb
UTILIZATION
I struggled at first because it was my first real amp and all the settings I was a little lost. So the time I spent a fix is because I started
Part potentiometer is very precise and easily adjustable if you know what you want.
The manual is available online in English and ENGL french and is very interresting for the use of switches.
SOUNDS
It is very suitable for what I do because it is very rock, blues and heavy when using the fake 3rd channel (lead boost).
I play oldschool punk enough (more than in overdrive distortion) so it is all fun in the group.
I play an Epiphone G400 with a microphone in 498T bridge (the original lacks a bit of precision).
On the clean channel I play in the natural overdrive white stripes. Ok, this is not a twin. Treble and high mids c slamming hard and particularly the strong point of the receiver given the number of possibilities to boost or change this frequency range.
I never use the brights come (as it is entered in the final even if a separate switch the order and not as a jack on the old '70s amp)
On the lead channel c the same thing but with less dynamic (normal). The sound is very warm and clear even in a corner. I usually play a 4 5 of lead, 3 and 4, master volume (10 for concerts, proof that a good master c, it keeps its faithful, just to equalize the room or change it as I play).
I'm also a little Beru (maccadam massacre only) therefore it is necessary to boost the lead (which basically adds 5 to 6 graduations of lead) and a little reverb to sound dirty.
The amp is great for the hi gain, wide range of sounds, but is less than c my thing, I prefer to listen than to play.
The reverb is a spring and good but do not abuse it, no more 4.
C ENGL, so precise and gentle distortion to the ear.
OVERALL OPINION
I have 2 years I believe and I am very happy, it is very solid (not handmade like you idiots tell sellers about the brand in Taiwan engl ... like all the fender , mesa and marshall) never had a problem (once a lamp has become microphonic, it happens) and I travel often between repeat.
I have a solid flight case custom made so no worries, it has at least 15 years and it's new.
You just have to do standby heating 1min30 and let reffroidir from 15 to 20 minutes before the move.
It fits perfectly in the range of blues rock with the heavy facilitated.
As I play at home I find it too powerful (100w AC does more than disturb the neighbors) so I think change has to do to pass it in 50 w with a switch.
on the other hand as I play in places not too scheduled for a base ca being able to do without transplanting sound is reassuring, it still will.
UTILIZATION
I struggled at first because it was my first real amp and all the settings I was a little lost. So the time I spent a fix is because I started
Part potentiometer is very precise and easily adjustable if you know what you want.
The manual is available online in English and ENGL french and is very interresting for the use of switches.
SOUNDS
It is very suitable for what I do because it is very rock, blues and heavy when using the fake 3rd channel (lead boost).
I play oldschool punk enough (more than in overdrive distortion) so it is all fun in the group.
I play an Epiphone G400 with a microphone in 498T bridge (the original lacks a bit of precision).
On the clean channel I play in the natural overdrive white stripes. Ok, this is not a twin. Treble and high mids c slamming hard and particularly the strong point of the receiver given the number of possibilities to boost or change this frequency range.
I never use the brights come (as it is entered in the final even if a separate switch the order and not as a jack on the old '70s amp)
On the lead channel c the same thing but with less dynamic (normal). The sound is very warm and clear even in a corner. I usually play a 4 5 of lead, 3 and 4, master volume (10 for concerts, proof that a good master c, it keeps its faithful, just to equalize the room or change it as I play).
I'm also a little Beru (maccadam massacre only) therefore it is necessary to boost the lead (which basically adds 5 to 6 graduations of lead) and a little reverb to sound dirty.
The amp is great for the hi gain, wide range of sounds, but is less than c my thing, I prefer to listen than to play.
The reverb is a spring and good but do not abuse it, no more 4.
C ENGL, so precise and gentle distortion to the ear.
OVERALL OPINION
I have 2 years I believe and I am very happy, it is very solid (not handmade like you idiots tell sellers about the brand in Taiwan engl ... like all the fender , mesa and marshall) never had a problem (once a lamp has become microphonic, it happens) and I travel often between repeat.
I have a solid flight case custom made so no worries, it has at least 15 years and it's new.
You just have to do standby heating 1min30 and let reffroidir from 15 to 20 minutes before the move.
It fits perfectly in the range of blues rock with the heavy facilitated.
As I play at home I find it too powerful (100w AC does more than disturb the neighbors) so I think change has to do to pass it in 50 w with a switch.
on the other hand as I play in places not too scheduled for a base ca being able to do without transplanting sound is reassuring, it still will.